My last visit to Seoul was in 1987. Dramatic changes have taken place in those 32 years, although many things remain the same.
Seoul
Bukchon (which means North Village) is a neighborhood largely comprised of traditional Korean houses called hanocks. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bukchon_Hanok_Village
Bukchon
I started my walk through Bukchon at the Bukchon Traditional Culture Center which provided interesting insights into the architecture and the neighborhood.
Bukchon
Wearing traditional dress when visiting historic sites is apparently a big thing in Korea. If you don’t own the right outfit, you can rent it.
Bukchon
There were quite a few fellow travelers going up and down the hills of Bukchon when I visited on a cold Monday morning. It can apparently get very crowded – something to which these ubiquitous signs attest.
Bukchon
The Seoul Metro is amazing. While it might look a bit overwhelming, it is pretty easy to navigate since all key signage is also in English or romanized Korean. Having hosted the Olympics and the World Cup, I suppose it’s not surprising that Seoul has done a lot to make it easy for foreigners to get around.
Seoul Metro
Gwanghwamun Gate sits at the top of a massive square and is the entrance to Seoul’s primary palace.
Gwanghwamun Gate
The Donhwamun Gate, which is the entrance to Changdeokgung Palace, is another great place to wear your traditional Korean clothing. Check out the guy’s hat.
Donhwamun Gate
Changdeokgung Palace is a World Heritage-listed site, and it does not disappoint. Traditional palace architecture organized palaces along straight axes. This palace meanders with the landscape and makes for an extraordinary visit on a nice day.
Changdeokgung Palace
Changgyeonggung Palace is adjacent to Changdeokgung Palace, and they have separate entrance fees. This palace was primarily for the female members of the royal household. When I was there, a fashion shoot (not an actual wedding) was taking place on the steps of the palace.
Changgyeonggung Palace
One of the most interesting meals I had in Seoul was at Vatos Urban Tacos (vatoskorea.com). The restaurant was started by three Korean-Americans from Southern California and Texas who grew up on Korean and Mexican food. Their KoMex fusion dishes were awesome. (The photo of the Kimchi Carnitas Fries is from the restaurant website.) I ate at the original Vatos location in the Itaewon district of Seoul. Itaewon is an interesting neighborhood which has changed dramatically since my first visit in 1987. Long popular with tourists, expats, and U.S. military personnel, the character of this centrally located neighborhood has changed dramatically as the number of soldiers stationed at the adjacent Yongson Garrison of the United States Forces Korea has declined. All U.S. soldiers are expected to be re-deployed to other bases outside Seoul soon. Itaewon is known for restaurants serving foreign food, and it is teeming with restaurants and bars. Long shunned by the locals, the neighborhood is becoming increasing popular with trendy Koreans – who packed Vatos on a Tuesday night.
Itaewon
Photo by Vatos Urban Tacos
All photos by Jay Yokley except as noted
Source: @jayspassport | Published: March, 15 2019